Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Irani Restaurants


Irani Restaurants



They happen to be there today as well but much subdued and low key as compared to those heydays when they formed a distinct places of refreshments .Entire Bombay was studded with these golden sites and sounds of speakeasies called the Irani Restaurants and indeed they were the cultural landmarks of cosmopolitan Mumbai.



Irani restaurant were a phenomena like the Udipis . And they had their style statement of their own. Located predominantly on corners of buildings on main roads or even on smaller streets they had those peculiar teak chairs with rounded bottom resters with black polish and I have never seen any broken ever even when they used to be manhandled. The Marble tables were round and thick mounted on Victorian base made of teakwood and black polish. Another feature was the counters one for the owner and cashiers who was the unmistakable fair stout robust irani seated with a hunch and who would watch the entire place with his Hawkeye precision discerning every abnormality of material and service. He roared like lion and newer cowed by mavalis or goondas coming inside as there was no taboo to caste and creed sometimes displayed clearly by a signboard.



They sold Bharat Blades and Boric Powder .They sold Cavenders and Passing Show and Charminar and Peela hatthi.They sold Polson Maska in small rolls or Polson coffee and kolynos toothpaste.They sold Cadbury Drinking chocolate and Ovaltine sometimes as a beverage.They sold Brasso and Cheery Blossom shoe polish and Wimco matches.They sold Brylcream and Loma and Forhans.All kept in glass showcases around the Counter.There were tall cupboards with glass which kept Buns and loaves of bread and others which had Cakes and Pastries for sale.



Iranis used to be frequented by boys and men but hardly ladies.Standard orders were Tea which was ‘Paani cum” a concept started by them where tea was made from milk rather than boiling water.Then there was Bun Maska and Omlette or Kheema which was their speciality.Some sold hot Puddings and pattices which were non veg and Kharis or toasts.Those on townside had Biryani and Payas and other exotic dishes including Dhanshaks.Business was mainly from vending tea and coffee which was filter and later instant where the cashier would add a small tinge to the stuff.Huge portraits of king of Iran and Queen of Iran decorated the walls of these hotels.They were the places from where you could make aphone call at a cost as there were very few public call booths and mobile phones were impossibles.A peep inside the restaurants kitchen was as smoothening .The waiters were peculiar people from Muslim community who would get free breakfast or periodic dose of hot tea and Kheema at lunch time with fresh bread .Smoking was allowed infact many smoked as they sipped tea and chatted in loud voices,although occupying the tables for more time was discouraged unless you ordered for another tea .There were sighboards telling not to sit without work and not to comb hair infront of the mirror hung above washbasins.



My earliest experience was one opposite Sena Bhavan at Shivaji Park.I forget the name but the memories are engraved on my mind. This one sold excellent Patties and Patti Smaosas and Cakes. The Patti Samosas were small oil laden with masala and ingredients blended perfectly to be eaten with sauce or Tomato ketchup. When I went to my father’s Studio Pamart accompanying him or otherwise , I was usually treated to these delicacies as tea was a taboo for kids. Also later on return from swimming sessions during holidays at MGMO swim pool I would relish double omelets especially when the appetite was insatiable or there was some extra cash around. It was a great feeling to walk up this place during vacations and enjoy Sosyo at this place or at one situated on Caddell road or on the circle where there was the Building Udayam.Coco Cola had a different taste which was inimitable at the time before Thums a up or Coke.Infact Coke was the short of Cocoa Cola and later it became a brand just like Charms which was short for Char Minar a cigarette with strong flavor which was my father’s brand .He was an artist and artists were supposed to have minor vices to bring out their creative energies. Years later this place opposite sena bhavan was sold off and now a restaurant Chandragupt runs here instead of the much missed Irani joint.



Another remarkable one was at Parel TT .This was too was an unforgettable place because of its specialty Pudding and Cakes which were served in a Glass bowl as assortments and you were supposed to be pick only the ones which tempted you k.My father took us to Firdausi on special occasions and he used to foot the bill when everyone was done . Just outside Firdausi was a small library of Comic books and this was our recluse during vacations as we devoured one after other on binge reading .When we stood out side at the Library rich flavours emanating from the bakery at Firdausi would greet us.During Christmas time this was a treat by itself.We would then wonder when we would grow up become employed so that we would have them all at one go due to our affordability. Firdausi beckoned us during college days when we were broke and I would walk with Shekhar around parel TT with few coins in our pocket we would purchase Chana or peanuts eyeing the temptation called Firdausi. But alas the time never came as our likes and desires migrated to other realms like beer and I remember during my college days occasionally I would hop into Firdausi to down one or two beers which was either LP or the staple golden eagle.Firdausi is now extinct and its place has been taken by a wretched department stores . Firdausi thus saw the evolution of my childhood into Collegean and then into a salaried young man treating his friends but the place itself evolved changing the merchandise .Another delicacy at Firdausi was Falooda with rose milk and sabja .This dammed thing was always costlier at Firdausi but then we enjoyed this at roadside joint on corner of Sheyte market at Naigaum sold as doodh cold drink and in summer it was a nectar of life supplying volume and antioxidants and proteins.



Mashaallah was situated next to a post office in Naigaum next to police quarters where Bapat satyed a colleague at college. This was a joint where we chilled out during high school days. It was may be a chiliya place.But this was special as we had here a Juke box where we played Rajesh Khanna songs .It was actually a gramophone box where choice of the song was buttoned in after a fall of a coin in a slot and we could see the Lac record being lifted and played .It was ultimate ecstasy to hear this sipping tea and occasional having double omlette which was a common highlight of my bachelor days during Diwali Vacations .I remember telling one of my rich neighbors to gift me a Irani restaurant like Mashaallah so that I would sit at the counter gathering money and enjoying the ambience of the rendezvous with rich flavors and music .A crazy dream !



Modern Times was next to Hindmata Talkies. It still exists at a vantage spot. We collegians would meet at this place boisterously cracking jokes and making plans to see matinee shows or talking of courtships with fervor. There was one on opposite road too where I remember to hear a bollywood song on it Juke Box one in which Asha Parekh sang it on the large screen with her sinuous body movements “parde Mein Rehene Do” an enchanting and insinuating number which caught fancy of youth.



Lucky Restaurant was bang opposite Chitra cinema .It was a place where we would have tea and Britannia or Parle biscuits on our evening or late evening strolls outside boys hostel.This place has been converted to Lucky furniture shop



One next to Aurora theatre was coolest spot especially when we had cold drinks during intervals of Western Action movies or movies of Dean Martin. Another one was at Dadar TT where Milan Shop stood for years .It was a large restaurant catering to officers and Parsi gentry from Colony .We would settle for Soda plus Lemon of dukes which was a fizzy drink of repute as refreshing as ever.Sarvi was in Byculla where we enjoyed Paya soup exactly as prescribed by Asif my friend .One opposite VJTI was a craze too spending fun time with friends after strolling at Love Gardens would give us a high which was unsurpassed delight of youthful days. Occasionally we relished Joy Ice-cream with Vanila flavor which was irreplaceable taste and feel on tongue. But the ultimate place was one next to MGMO swim pool besides the sea shore with open air and cool sea breeze and meeting here after stroll on the sands was something worth cherishing all our lives. Some iranis at town side were places like they showed in Hollywood movies with Glass top tables and a menu which suited our pockets during Christmas and New year times when we would try to go to jam Sessions at Colaba a dream world like Saturday night fever .the instances when we went were when we went to British Council Library or Asiatic library.



Those were the days of dreams and romance of the Iranis added to our fantasies .Due to their décor and western culture they endeared us to make our youth colourfull and rich. This is a tribute to those Irani restaurants which added spice and hope and tang to otherwise insecure life of distant days!!






By Dilip Vishnu Maydeo – November 6, 2011

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