Irani Restaurants
They happen to be
there today as well but much subdued and low key as compared to those heydays
when they formed a distinct places of refreshments .Entire Bombay was studded
with these golden sites and sounds of speakeasies called the Irani Restaurants
and indeed they were the cultural landmarks of cosmopolitan Mumbai.
Irani restaurant
were a phenomena like the Udipis . And they had their style statement of their
own. Located predominantly on corners of buildings on main roads or even on
smaller streets they had those peculiar teak chairs with rounded bottom resters
with black polish and I have never seen any broken ever even when they used to
be manhandled. The Marble tables were round and thick mounted on Victorian base
made of teakwood and black polish. Another feature was the counters one for the
owner and cashiers who was the unmistakable fair stout robust irani seated with
a hunch and who would watch the entire place with his Hawkeye precision
discerning every abnormality of material and service. He roared like lion and
newer cowed by mavalis or goondas coming inside as there was no taboo to caste
and creed sometimes displayed clearly by a signboard.
They sold Bharat
Blades and Boric Powder .They sold Cavenders and Passing Show and Charminar and
Peela hatthi.They sold Polson Maska in small rolls or Polson coffee and kolynos
toothpaste.They sold Cadbury Drinking chocolate and Ovaltine sometimes as a
beverage.They sold Brasso and Cheery Blossom shoe polish and Wimco matches.They
sold Brylcream and Loma and Forhans.All kept in glass showcases around the
Counter.There were tall cupboards with glass which kept Buns and loaves of
bread and others which had Cakes and Pastries for sale.
Iranis used to be
frequented by boys and men but hardly ladies.Standard orders were Tea which was
‘Paani cum” a concept started by them where tea was made from milk rather than
boiling water.Then there was Bun Maska and Omlette or Kheema which was their
speciality.Some sold hot Puddings and pattices which were non veg and Kharis or
toasts.Those on townside had Biryani and Payas and other exotic dishes
including Dhanshaks.Business was mainly from vending tea and coffee which was
filter and later instant where the cashier would add a small tinge to the
stuff.Huge portraits of king of Iran and Queen of Iran decorated the walls of
these hotels.They were the places from where you could make aphone call at a
cost as there were very few public call booths and mobile phones were
impossibles.A peep inside the restaurants kitchen was as smoothening .The
waiters were peculiar people from Muslim community who would get free breakfast
or periodic dose of hot tea and Kheema at lunch time with fresh bread .Smoking
was allowed infact many smoked as they sipped tea and chatted in loud
voices,although occupying the tables for more time was discouraged unless you
ordered for another tea .There were sighboards telling not to sit without work
and not to comb hair infront of the mirror hung above washbasins.
My earliest
experience was one opposite Sena Bhavan at Shivaji Park.I forget the name but
the memories are engraved on my mind. This one sold excellent Patties and Patti
Smaosas and Cakes. The Patti Samosas were small oil laden with masala and
ingredients blended perfectly to be eaten with sauce or Tomato ketchup. When I
went to my father’s Studio Pamart accompanying him or otherwise , I was usually
treated to these delicacies as tea was a taboo for kids. Also later on return
from swimming sessions during holidays at MGMO swim pool I would relish double
omelets especially when the appetite was insatiable or there was some extra
cash around. It was a great feeling to walk up this place during vacations and
enjoy Sosyo at this place or at one situated on Caddell road or on the circle
where there was the Building Udayam.Coco Cola had a different taste which was
inimitable at the time before Thums a up or Coke.Infact Coke was the short of
Cocoa Cola and later it became a brand just like Charms which was short for
Char Minar a cigarette with strong flavor which was my father’s brand .He was
an artist and artists were supposed to have minor vices to bring out their
creative energies. Years later this place opposite sena bhavan was sold off and
now a restaurant Chandragupt runs here instead of the much missed Irani joint.
Another remarkable
one was at Parel TT .This was too was an unforgettable place because of its
specialty Pudding and Cakes which were served in a Glass bowl as assortments
and you were supposed to be pick only the ones which tempted you k.My father
took us to Firdausi on special occasions and he used to foot the bill when
everyone was done . Just outside Firdausi was a small library of Comic books
and this was our recluse during vacations as we devoured one after other on
binge reading .When we stood out side at the Library rich flavours emanating
from the bakery at Firdausi would greet us.During Christmas time this was a
treat by itself.We would then wonder when we would grow up become employed so
that we would have them all at one go due to our affordability. Firdausi
beckoned us during college days when we were broke and I would walk with
Shekhar around parel TT with few coins in our pocket we would purchase Chana or
peanuts eyeing the temptation called Firdausi. But alas the time never came as
our likes and desires migrated to other realms like beer and I remember during
my college days occasionally I would hop into Firdausi to down one or two beers
which was either LP or the staple golden eagle.Firdausi is now extinct and its
place has been taken by a wretched department stores . Firdausi thus saw the
evolution of my childhood into Collegean and then into a salaried young man
treating his friends but the place itself evolved changing the merchandise
.Another delicacy at Firdausi was Falooda with rose milk and sabja .This dammed
thing was always costlier at Firdausi but then we enjoyed this at roadside
joint on corner of Sheyte market at Naigaum sold as doodh cold drink and in
summer it was a nectar of life supplying volume and antioxidants and proteins.
Mashaallah was
situated next to a post office in Naigaum next to police quarters where Bapat
satyed a colleague at college. This was a joint where we chilled out during
high school days. It was may be a chiliya place.But this was special as we had
here a Juke box where we played Rajesh Khanna songs .It was actually a
gramophone box where choice of the song was buttoned in after a fall of a coin
in a slot and we could see the Lac record being lifted and played .It was
ultimate ecstasy to hear this sipping tea and occasional having double omlette
which was a common highlight of my bachelor days during Diwali Vacations .I
remember telling one of my rich neighbors to gift me a Irani restaurant like
Mashaallah so that I would sit at the counter gathering money and enjoying the
ambience of the rendezvous with rich flavors and music .A crazy dream !
Modern Times was
next to Hindmata Talkies. It still exists at a vantage spot. We collegians
would meet at this place boisterously cracking jokes and making plans to see
matinee shows or talking of courtships with fervor. There was one on opposite
road too where I remember to hear a bollywood song on it Juke Box one in which
Asha Parekh sang it on the large screen with her sinuous body movements “parde
Mein Rehene Do” an enchanting and insinuating number which caught fancy of
youth.
Lucky
Restaurant was bang opposite Chitra cinema .It was a place where we would have
tea and Britannia or Parle biscuits on our evening or late evening strolls
outside boys hostel.This place has been converted to Lucky furniture shop
One next to Aurora
theatre was coolest spot especially when we had cold drinks during intervals of
Western Action movies or movies of Dean Martin. Another one was at Dadar TT
where Milan Shop stood for years .It was a large restaurant catering to
officers and Parsi gentry from Colony .We would settle for Soda plus Lemon of
dukes which was a fizzy drink of repute as refreshing as ever.Sarvi was in
Byculla where we enjoyed Paya soup exactly as prescribed by Asif my friend .One
opposite VJTI was a craze too spending fun time with friends after strolling at
Love Gardens would give us a high which was unsurpassed delight of youthful
days. Occasionally we relished Joy Ice-cream with Vanila flavor which was irreplaceable
taste and feel on tongue. But the ultimate place was one next to MGMO swim pool
besides the sea shore with open air and cool sea breeze and meeting here after
stroll on the sands was something worth cherishing all our lives. Some iranis
at town side were places like they showed in Hollywood movies with Glass top
tables and a menu which suited our pockets during Christmas and New year times
when we would try to go to jam Sessions at Colaba a dream world like Saturday
night fever .the instances when we went were when we went to British Council
Library or Asiatic library.
Those were the days
of dreams and romance of the Iranis added to our fantasies .Due to their décor
and western culture they endeared us to make our youth colourfull and rich.
This is a tribute to those Irani restaurants which added spice and hope and
tang to otherwise insecure life of distant days!!
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