I am back from that heaven called Mizoram .Back from the merciless trek that wrecked me for 5 days through thick forest and blue sky and inconsolable terrain with unaccounted hills, mountains, ravines, valleys, rivers and endless greenery of wild Banana and Bamboo forests. The mood got set at Aizawl Airport which swings it upwards with fascinating landscape as backdrop. No rush no noise just a few people and staff. A welcome signboard makes us feel important. Later someone tells me that when security showed interest in checking baggage for contraband it was cautioned not to do so as it would undermine dignity of YHAI and the trekkers who are primarily environmentalists .And the Airport security responded.! Great welcome!
Aizawl is a real large city perched on mountain that spreads for miles.We drive down in a sumo.Its great.pretty people and children .Small shops with cute merchandise.No opulence.Just what is required for a simple and pure life.occasional concrete high rise and mall here and there .Meandering roads with quiet people.Busy in their routine.
YHAI hostel at Luangmuawl is a great place we park in Dormitories.Clean bedsheeets and blancket.Simple food.No panic no haste.Comfort is the theme of the Mizo natives.We were each given Booklet and a Pamphlet titled ‘Mizoram’ ,we glance through the pages and find it fascinating.Vikram and Chandra are elected leaders.We are addressed by an official and oriented by another official.Gautam & Amandeep and Nagraj are amused by least formalities.No checking of I card,Medical certificates.We carry home a message,a mizo message in Management : Keep it simple , Have faith in people as much in god.Dont complicate things,Do as people wish to do.
First day is acclimatization .It is actually a social adjustment to the mizo city.We go for the museum walking and warming ourselves. Knowing more about each others .We click as many photos.No issue. They have faith in god as much as others and more so the guests.We walk to David s Kitchen. Mizo vegetable boiled dish with cabbage and bamboo shoots is a treat.The chicken is well cooked and real fleshy.The ambience is decent and tidy.No overdone interiors. Just simple functional decor. Service is good so is the food.
I meet a man Sridhar his persona impresses me .Fair man clean shaven pate ,hazy eyes with a Bhikbali in ear.It has pachu a special gem he tells me.He looks like a direct descendant of Shrimant Peshwas Kings and generals the erstwhile rulers of India after the Mughals.Shridhar is into trekking and mountaineering in a professional way. He runs a setup in Pune called Trek D.They are into organized valley crossing which they do with German and Swiss equipment and ropes. I tell him what I witnessed at Kokan Kada at Harishchandra Gad(Fort) .He invites me to one such event. Then we discover that we had met nearly 30-35 years ago,when We would ride on mobikes all the way from Mumbai to Pune to meet friends at rendezvous at Hotel Vaishali & Rupali sipping coffee and smoking .Evening we were back at Symbiosis hillock where groups perched with their stuff generally rum or whiskey which was literally ‘on the rocks’ Lalya Alias Shridhar Joshi
Let me tell you here that I often wonder of lost friends, but ‘where there is a will there is a way ‘and if you desire intensely that they meet you it does happen in reality. Here I was talking to Lalya his pet name after 35 years. He was in another trek group, but I maneuvered him in our group by convincing the base camp boss.
There was amandeep who looked like a bollywood comic spy with all his equipment,gadgets,instruments and gears. We met him at Kolkata Airport and introduced us, self and vikram.He even has texts on Northeast India and Mizoram to discover the country like a suspense thriller.A great guy with lots of dead weight .He made the entire trek a success for himself but could not do Caving and that was right for it would be really hazardous.Now aman as we called him has purchased a static bike and has planned to go on a fitness spree so that he can do lots of treks.Good idea!
YHAI Hostel Mess
On day one we keep all things unnecessary at base camp under safe custody.I and Vicky share the suitcase which has a lock.It is damn difficult to decide what to take and what not.But we don’t carry blankets and bed sheets.At last the final packing is done with lots of information,discussion,choice,needs and discretion.After breakfast we gather just outside the base camp in the compound and are flagged off by the high ranking official of Youth Hostel.His wife tells us ‘Jungle mein Mangal hai’ it means that the jungle is auspicious and pure and we walk forth to discover the same .We take a ride in Bus and are taken to a Scout Training Institute which has lots of facilities including a obstacle path consisting of mounting wall,jumping,swinging on rope and rappelling.It was inspiring and productive.Most of our guides are serious Scouts and in a place like Mizoram there is ample scope to put your scouting knowledge in use.I am now nostalgic as I tell others proudly of my scouting days and my brother who was a Presidents Scout.I take snaps of self with a scouts salute and the institute as a backdrop.Here Prachi introduces herself to me .she is a journo and a media person now considering photography as a career option.I feel delighted as I tell her about my passion to write and blog.she is maha impressed.We then get back into the busses and are let off on a spot where the city ends.We eat the lunch for it is nearing 12 .And then we start of on the tar road.It gradually becomes steep and unrelenting.i pickup pace with another cohiker Nagraj Shanbhog a professor in Engineering at Sayaji University in Baroda.One of the finest gentleman I came across and who gave me company throughout the trek as I basked in his compantionship.I was tireless went on surpassing many and reaching a spot where we cut into the jungle.We walk through slippery jungle path thickly wooded stopping on way due to dyspnoea and very heavy sweating as the climate is humid due to tropical forest but ultimately at around 4 pm reach the camp at Vaipuanpho.
On reaching the camp we were served welcome welcome drink with Rasna and later tea.Occupying our tent and refurbishing my self ,I came out to survey the site including the small watering tank which had been constructed and the toilets which were adequate and clean.I got ready for a cool bath and accomplished it by pouring cold water over myself .I got immensely refreshed and changed into fresh clothes a Reebok Jersey.Now we waited for hot soup and dinner which was simple but in plenty.Here we met one senior member and the Koli family from Thane who were with their nephew as we were in the same tent and Mr Bhagat who is from Delhi from Dept of Agriculture and has come with his family but he told me that he had not done any preparatory treks and hence was at a disadvantage.”You will be fine” I assure him.The jungle is very thick here but the site is cleared up..It gets dark early in these Eastern regions and at 8 pm it is pitch dark.As there was no camp fire we rest in our tents and while chatting with co trekkers I fall asleep.
Next day ,we got up at around 6 am in early morning ablutions were easy. we had tea with Jam and Butter sandwich.and dressed up we fell in rows ready to go .Thus day two started in right earnest.The way was uphill and as we maneuvered steep climb and turn we could see our campsite and tents from a height.Now the climb got more and more tough ,but as they say when the going gets tough the tough get going ,so I met the challenge fair and square remaining in forefront amongst first 10 out of 60.Abhijeet and Shridhar were in their own mood clicking for their nature study consisting of winged insects.We might have climbed around 1000 feet and later gradual descent .The road was slippery and I managed somehow with great pressure on my legs and toes, just not to skid and slide.As we went down on the steep road suddenly appeared a river which flowed serenely.Here we rested for a while I conducted a session of yoga for young lad prashant and later his brother Salil who was reluctant disciple . The water was crystal clear and we quenched our thirst to the hilt..Nagraj lost his spectacles here as he could not remember where he kept his pair.We crossed without our shoes on and then went through very thick jungle again we were climbing for 2 hours and then finally came onto a road were we parked ourselves. The Mizo guides then showed us their skills at creating a spear like missile out of tall grass blade and to pluck out another variety of grass blade and to consume its stalk of a centimeter or so. We had our lunch perched on the road. And later after some sweets Khajoor and chikki started off with Prof Nagraj keeping pace with me
We were damned tired but the hike went on and on we were walking on hill tops with scenic landscapes and white fluffy clouds and green dense forest later we came to a small village where we rested for a while and then walked through the village where I tipped a tenner to some village kids who gave us guavas which we consumed as rich timely reward of the forest .Manjunath gave us Papanas a citrus fruit portions which partly replenished our electrolyte loss .At last after walking for a km or two we ultimately landed at the site at Ailawng .A very tiring day I thought.But the real stuff was to come on the same day.And as we reached there was a clear clarion call for getting ready for Caving.We were told to wear our dirtiest trousers and I took my Reebok resin Blazer.Vikram advised me not to carry Camera and I obeyed. I took my cap and my torch. I walked to the cave in this attire which turned to be right by default ,not aware of what lied ahead of me.Before the actual entrance ,one of the guide asked me “ How are you ?” as he stood checking one by one . I took it as a formality, replied Ok later I learnt that it was a screen for safe entry and emergence from caving. Tribal instincts, I thought later. No tough talk no ability or attitude testing. At the entrance another guide briefed us about the cave. Do and Don’ts .Their pronunciations were far from clear. But I remember he said that If you fall you are gone. Now that is never taken seriously by any trekker who knows that any fall means injury or fatality. Some of the salient points he made were: Once you take entry and gradually progress, automatically, you cannot turn back.I never quite understood the meaning of this concept but later realized that most spots were only footholds which only one person could occupy at a time. The cave is bat infested. Help those in front and back. Strong and weak alternate.
CAVING – A Unique Experience
We were a group of 60 and five dropped out as probably they opted out or were declared unfit . It was a wise decision . I was skeptic about my performance but being in high spirits and due to acceptable performance till date , I did take the challenge. The initial part of cave entry took lots of time and gave me ample space to reconsider the challenge , which I think now retrospectively was difficult not to indulge .Moreover standing at the entrance for 25 minutes which passed off quietly and there was no ulterior feedback from those who entered . The cave however got progressively darker and whimsical. The terrain inside was absolutely beyond speculation. It was not like the caves in Meghalaya near cherpunji.i remember that I had not dared entry and emergence in that stalactite cave which dripped from top as I was weary and there was no guide or assistance. But it was surely a stooge as compared to this experience.
This cave actually turned out to be something like two rock patches interface of hillocks underground coated with slippery mud with absolute unpredictability putting up all types of challenges as a model trekkers obstacle race in darkness with abysmal crevices below beyond salvage because slipping down into it would have been like getting trapped between two phalanges of rock with no scope to wriggle out. Organic contaminated water from bats dropping filled up deep crevices below as we were midway trying to negotiate. At one point the lofty climb amounted to nearly 15 feet with no rock scaffolding to anchor the feet or the space between the two legs supports 7 feet apart necessitating the man behind to stabilize your back foot with two hands as you struggled miserably with your groping hands to gain foothold with your front foot. But you did this out of compulsion and at instance of your trekking impulses learnt on different escapades which you prayed would come to your psychomotor rescue. Again peer pressure made you go for it as you saw everyone negotiate ne by one. Also the cave was one way journey with no chance to return .Taken jocularly this fact became the real mind boggling issue that confrontation is the only solution to this supreme ordeal.
Just as you minimally succeeded in tantamounting one challenges another stared at you like a subterranean jaw willing to devour you away with a promise of an obscure death or near death agony or loss of face and near and dear ones far from your own civilized home. Huge sheet of looming rock threatened to slide down crushing you as you wished away such an unlikely possibility. Keep silence inside the cave the words of the guide reverberated in your ears as you shooed others pleading them silence so that no unforeseen event could happen in the dark dungeon of sure misery. Every negotiation was a thriller that sent our bodies in unimaginable frenzy of forced postures which probably were taken by our blessed bodies only in the mother’s womb in fetal stage. Here we were in same state of biology but his time it was ‘Mother Earth’. One of the starrer was; lying on a ledge and at a stark call ’next’ glide through a small clearance by pushing yourself with neck turned to one side expecting worse and suddenly coming onto another lofty rock relief where you were hauled up suddenly immovably onto a smallest foothold while you saw entrants struggling and wriggling between two rock wall drops that would allow half your size vertically while guides scolded and chided you to assume a technique which came to you automatically out of your instinct of survival to press back and hands to keep you from slipping down into abyss and maneuvering alternately your hands and back to mobilize yourself onto the other side with indomitable hardship.
There was respite in between but a ghastly one at the point where all were stuck due to sheer numbers and due to lower guide to entrant ratio. I was mortally scared ,no movement for 20 minutes ,no idea as to what was happening, if we put off all the torches to save the cells from going dead ,it was absolutely dark and a bit asphyxiating due to stress of impending doom and lack of information about any likely casualty. It was a rock patch with huge boulders in way where we waited incessantly. Some of the back entrants tried to come in front but I objected. “Keep the sequence” I pleaded less than I ordered. Just then one of the guides came moving forth fast and agile. I caught hold of him, well sir,I said , I am a senior and I have a right to know if something untoward has happened causing the immense delay ,I suggested. There was a curt reply ‘No’ as he went ahead without any regards .I tried to catch his meaning of the word with doubt and suspense.
Is this nightmare going to ever end we thought with most youngsters cracking jokes maybe to make the mood light .I disregarded such foolish humor at such a critical moment trying to control my temper. A cave of this effect was no place to give vent to your jocular repertoire I thought. A fat trekker from Bengal who carried an umbrella was in his elements. But the man who helped me most was the tall and fair Bengali who happened to be in front and another from Karnataka who helped me from behind. Then as we routinely managed ourselves wishing that the exit appeared suddenly. Alas it surely showed up its existence after a time interval of 3 hours that seemed like an epoch. And this was a shoulder breaker. The exit warranted a hauling yourself and your tired body out of a wee little opening in the ground open to starry dark night seemingly to be greeted by ‘rescued’ co-trekkers. But there was a caveat literally; For you would have to haul yourself with confronting rock surfaces wide apart cutting down all the forces that would give you the strength of propulsion. I did make it with lots of support but with an earlier struggler and the current one ,emerged out of the adversity with a smile on my face to be lifted out by hands while others applauded in the dense darkness with silhouetted trekkers sitting on small rocks weary from the thing called ‘Caving’ .I had injured my left shoulder badly but the pain was shadowed by the pride of success .
We shook hands with bliss and happiness of accomplishing the impossible together. Later as we walked towards the tents at one point, we posed together for a picture of triumph. It was a long walk in darkness, but I walked ceaselessly and refused help as the guys from Karnataka garrulously talked their minds away in ununderstandable Kannada language. At last we reached the site. Water was in plenty but I refrained from taking bath but I chose to clean the grime off me and changed clothes. That day there was a campfire with all the rejoicing .But I preferred to keep to my tent, talking with Mr. Bhagat and Aman as I put my wet army trouser from drying with the Reebok blazer which protected me from getting wet inside the cave and which helped me to slide on rock surface.
That night I talked incessantly due to the excitement like that of a schoolboy and as the noise outside the tents rose I managed to sleep out of exhaustion although before sleep time and again we had appreciated the super star studded night sky you would never ever witness if you never came out into forests far away from civilization. This place then I realized was more civil than any city for here you were in company of constellations and stars which populated skies and which were more dense that the people in city. And because the trees silently admired all what you did with their gracious presence and the air was so pure so that it breathed into you new life and the desire to do much more than you ever imagined. The benevolence of nature is beyond words for in such situations one realizes that one is more near the almighty than the hell hole termed as a city.
Next morning I woke up .toilet was a very hygienic pit dug up and screened in a nice way. I bunked the bath had tea and sandwich and gradually readied myself brushing the pride of yesterdays feat and cajoling self to get into the tempo of the Trek. Packing my lunch in the box we set out after the Battle cry “ Ambe Bhawani Maa” as everyone responded with a chorus “Hee Haa Hoo” like those of the demons. Now the walk was incessant while we came onto the road twice near the villages which were neat and prosperous with tidy houses with few cars parked in front .Mizoram is a rich state I, thought or is it because we were on the outskirts of Aizawl the capital of the state.Prof Nagraj went on with his dream for development plans of collective farming and farmers co-operative to produce much more from the fertile soil by clearing the forest especially for horticulture, but I met this argument with the principle of conservation rather than mass production. “people here are satisfied and not greedy ,let them live a peaceful life rather than a competitive one like the one near metropolitan cities” I told him.
The walk got progressively difficult through dense forest although on an occasion we parked our self at a spot that looked like a hill station where we had lunch and I tried to dry my clothes. One of the trekker ladies misplaced her goggles as the pair slid down and stuck in a bush. Her boy friend tried to salvage it by bending over .but we dissuaded him as he would fall into the valley. When we walked down the hill the path was steep and slippery and I did skid on two occasions one on the face .I was saved because of the bushes and grasses all along path. I generally never fall due to very sturdy reflexes but during this descent I went down due to a technical error which I am due to post in another Blog which will cover the tech aspect of the Mizoram adventure.
At one point due to in coordination amongst the guides and I do agree that they were too young and now a bit tired after the caving experience, we went onto a wrong path deep down into the thick jungle before someone realized that it was a mistake .We returned back huffing and puffing walking for 30 minutes as tempers flew high and the group leader Chandra raised his voice. But the seniors were calm .In a trek of this magnitude such miscalculations are expected. My silence on the matter was lauded and quickly the mood changed. We walked then without a word going on and on as my muscles were sore and my joints weary. Finally the ordeal which amounted to 16 kms came to an abrupt end. As we came down and crossed a beautiful river that ran quickly into the valley. This camp site was very smart like they show in the movies. We settled onto the Bamboo benches waiting for tea. It was getting dark and Prachi and Suman and their Bengalese friend requested me for a snap with them, I obliged .The site was cleaned up and the toilet make shift. That night there was great fanfare.Gautam sang very well .I appreciated him while lying inside my tent absolutely exhausted .There were other good singers too and every type singing prowess was being demonstrated. But I drifted off to sleep at Hawlhhah .When I woke in-between; I could hear continuous medium decibel groaning of creatures in the river. Maybe insects, reptiles and amphibians. But the air was fragrant and mystic and again I dozed off. For the uninitiated this would be spine chilling. But for hard core trekkers it was ecstasy.
Next day after routine ablutions, we started off from the opposite side and the road was too slippery through the jungle of dense bamboo and wild trees. We climbed and then went downhill .Nagraj kept pace with me and suddenly we came to a clearance of a river bed. Most men stripped themselves and on bare clothes entered the cold water .The river was knee deep but we enjoyed the current and refreshed .Getting back into clothes was tough but I was charged up and went on with gusto. A good looking trekker girl slipped and fell in the water but she was supported by the guides. Later this woman told us that she was working with a TV channel as an actor in a serial. I admired her. At one point we had lunch and then the journey went on till 4 pm. As we walked up the hill weary from the heat and humidity we abruptly greeted by a Mizo gentleman who was a cam leader. Yes we had arrived at Nghalchawn .This camp leader was a Olympic Archer representing India and I Climbed near the banner for a snap. The camp site was neat and trendy like a resort. The tents were large and imported. Just as I entered victorious, The same gentleman who had flagged us off was there with his camcorder recording us one by one .I gave a brief interview about caving and the trek on the whole. It was amazing I remarked as I went on record. I changed myself into a fresh trouser ready for a group photo as a big group left for onward tour .The Kolis too left from Assam .Mr Bhagat left in the camp boss vehicle. We relaxed in our tents writing feed back with Gokhale and the kids.Nagraj was always there by me as my god sent friend and compatriot. That night we were served Mizo food and I liked it for the change. We slept like a log.
Next day the ablutions were easy as there was a good toilet and plenty of water. After breakfast we started off on the last day. We walked through forest and on a wide road.I clicked snaps of wild flowers and orchids and some birds which flew high, maybe kites. And the terrain became friendlier and we came to a picnic spot with a model village made of bamboo huts for all denominations of village folk. We had grub on a big arena some had it at the restaurant. Then we walked for 2-3 kms and then saw the buses standing for us at sihhmui.The trek was over .I thanked the guides and took their pics.I learnt that they were serious scouts and 2 of them were headed for Presidents scouts. I congratulated them wishing them best luck. We boarded the bus and every one sang and danced to the taped music.Atlast we arrived at the Base camp at the YHAI guest house. We were greeted with rejoicing and addressed by the organizers. Then we were ushered into a small auditorium and we were given the Certificates amongst applause. Vicky addressed the gathering thanking everyone. We then took our bags kept in custody and quickly went for bath one by one. Dinner brought us to the mess. A new group had arrived from Pune and I briefed them about the cave .But they were old and seasoned trekkers and would complete it too. I wished them luck as I went to the dormitory and slept like a log.
Next day we bade good bye to each other taking our numbers and contact. I embraced Nagraj who was a researcher too. I Bhavin,Gautm Vikram,Prachi and others got into the same vehicle that drove me to Aizwal airport. We took a snap . Later at Kolkata Airport Kavita gave me good company as she talked incessantly to hoarseness. I bid farewell to Chandra and Chauhan and Sanjay .As I sat at the Airport I reminisced about the great time I had with these fine people for a week. Flight from Kolkata to Mumbai was on time and we arrived at about 11 pm .I took a rickshaw home and declared the trek as completed and accomplished
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